1 |
DigiKey |
1568-1421-ND |
|
1 |
DigiKey |
DS18B20-ND |
|
10-32 brass thumbscrews |
4 |
Hardware store |
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10-32 x 1/2” brass screws |
12 |
Hardware store |
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10-32 brass nuts |
12 |
Hardware store |
|
10 gauge wireless |
3 inches |
Hardware store |
|
3/16” thin-wall brass tubing |
2 - 36" lengths (use as needed) |
Hobby Store |
|
1/4” x 1/16” thick brass flat stock |
1 - 36" length (use as needed) |
|
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26 gauge flexible wire |
|
salvage from old serial mouse cable |
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22 gauge solid core wire |
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salvage from solid-core CAT 5 cable |
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USB-mini USB cable |
1 |
|
|
2 x 20 female header |
1 |
connector salvaged from old IDE hard drive cable |
|
2200 to 10000 mAh 5 volt power bank battery |
1 |
|
|
SPST Toggle Switch |
1 |
Sparkfun |
COM-09276 |
SPST Micro-Switch |
1 |
Sparkfun |
COM-00098 |
Header Push Pins |
as needed |
Sparkfun |
PRT-12693 |
1K resistor (brn/bblk/red) |
1 |
Sparkfun |
COM-13760 |
Through-Hole Resistor – 4.7K ohm 5% 1/4W (yellow/purple/red) |
1 |
Adafruit |
2783 |
|
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|
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Optional: |
|
|
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Logitech K400 keyboard/mouse-pad |
1 |
Office Depot |
729357 |
|
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|
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Tools: |
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Weller 100/140 Watt soldering gun |
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|
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Plumber's copper pipe cutter |
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Side cutters |
|
|
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Needle-nose pliers |
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Wire stripper |
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|
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Flat screwdriver |
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|
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3rd arm jig |
|
|
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Drill |
|
|
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Leather punch |
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Software |
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|
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Image burned on the Raspberry Pi 3 micro-SD card |
|
|
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Electrical diagram design program |
runs on Linux notebook |
|
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Arduino programming interactive development environment |
runs on Linux notebook |
|
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Video editing software used for promo clips |
runs on Linux notebook |
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BUILD INSTRUCTIONS
Here's the Fritzing layout of the electrical components. I wasn't able to find a library part file for the 3.5" 480 x 320 PiTFT module, so I simply broke out the cable connections, from the Raspberry Pi to the display with labels.
Pi-to-TFT Screen Cable
The Pi-to-TFT screen cable was fabbed-up by salvaging a 2 x 20 connector from an old IDE hard-drive cable. Take the cable retainer clip off the back and peel away the ribbon cable, being careful not to pull the pins out of the connector. You can then solder solid core 22-gauge wire to the connector pins and route the wires to male push pins that plug into the display's 2 x 20 header. I think the exposed soldered connector, on the front of the Pi, enhances the “engineering” look of the badge.
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Exposed Raspberry Pi Connector Detail |
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PiTFT Display Push Pins Detail (back side) |
The Auxiliary Arduino Pro-Mini, Ultrasonic Range Finder, and DS18B20 Digital Thermometer
An auxiliary Arduino Pro-Mini (5V,16 MHz model), connects serially to the Pi through a level-shifter board, to get near-real time readings from the ultrasonic range finder. There's also analog input pins available for as-yet undefined new badge features. The rangefinder will eventually pulse an tri-color
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